JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES,
BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT IN THE YEARS 1817-18.
BY JOHN OXLEY,
SURVEYOR GENERAL OF THE TERRITORY AND LIEUTENANT OF THE ROYAL NAVY.
WITH MAPS AND VIEWS OF THE INTERIOR, OR NEWLY DISCOVERED COUNTRY.



Production notes:
* 12 items of errata listed in the book have been corrected in this eBook.
* Illustrations, Maps and Charts have not been included in this eBook.
* Notes included within the text have been included in square
    brackets [] in the text at the point referenced.
* Italics have been converted to upper case.





CONTENTS


PART I

LIST OF PLATES
LIST OF CHARTS
INRODUCTION
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA PART I.

PART II

PREFACE
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA PART II.
APPENDIX PART I.
No. I.  Instructions for conducting and leading first expedition.
No. II  Report of tour over Blue Mountains in 1815 by the Governor.
No. III Letter from Oxley to Governor advising of his return from first
        expedition.
APPENDIX PART II.
No. IV  Diary of Mr. Evans, from 8th to 18th of July, 1818.
No. V.  Governor's report  on the return of Oxley from the second
        expedition, together with a letter from Oxley on his arrival
        at Port Stephens..
No. VI. Governor's report on Oxley's discovery of Port Stephens together
        with a letter from Oxley to the Governor on this subject.
A brief abstract of the population of N.S.W in 1815, 1816 and 1817.
A statement  of land in cultivation, quantities of stock, etc. from
        1813 to 1817 inclusive.




LIST OF PLATES (NOT INCLUDED IN THIS EBOOK).

Field Plains from Mount Aymot.
The Grave of a Native of Australia.
Arbuthnot's Range, from the West.
Liverpool Plains. West Prospect from View Hill.
Bathurst's Falls.
A Native Chief of Bathurst.


LIST OF CHARTS (NOT INCLUDED IN THIS EBOOK).

Range of the Thermometer from April 9th to August 30th 1817 by John
Oxley.
A Chart of Part of the Interior of New South Wales, 1817.
     First Expedition.
A Chart of Part of the Interior of New South Wales, 1818.
     Second Expedition.
Reduced Sketch of the Two Expeditions.
A Plan of Port Macquarie Including a Sketch of Part of Hastings River,
     on the East Coast of New South Wales.
A General Statement of the Inhabitants of New South Wales as per General
     Muster commencing 28th September 1818, with an account of same
     at Van Diemmens Land.
A General Statement of the Land in Cultivation etc., the quantities
     of Stock etc., as accounted for at the General Muster, with an
     account of same at Van Diemmens Land..





JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA
Part I.


TO HIS EXCELLENCY LACHLAN MACQUARIE, ESQ.
MAJOR GENERAL IN THE ARMY,
AND CAPTAIN GENERAL AND GOVERNOR IN CHIEF IN AND OVER THE TERRITORY
OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND ITS DEPENDENCIES,
THE FOLLOWING JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION,
PERFORMED UNDER HIS ADMINISTRATION AND DIRECTION,
IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS VERY OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,
JOHN OXLEY.




INTRODUCTION.

The colony had been established many years before any successful attempt
had been made to penetrate into the interior of the country, by crossing
the range of hills, known to the colonists as the Blue Mountains: these
mountains were considered as the boundary of the settlements westward,
the country beyond them being deemed inaccessible.

The year 1813 proving extremely dry, the grass was nearly all destroyed,
and the water failed; the horned cattle suffered severely from this
drought, and died in great numbers. It was at this period that three
gentlemen, Lieutenant Lawson, of the Royal Veteran Company, Messrs.
Blaxland, and William Wentworth, determined upon attempting a passage
across these mountains, in hopes of finding a country which would afford
support to their herds during this trying season.

They crossed the Nepean River at Emu Plains, and ascending the first
range of mountains, were entangled among gullies and deep ravines for a
considerable time, insomuch that they began to despair of ultimate
success. At length they were fortunate enough to find a main dividing
range, along the ridge of which they travelled, observing that it led
them westward. After suffering many hardships, their distinguished
perseverance was at length rewarded by the view of a country, which at
first sight promised them all they could wish.

Into this Land of Promise they descended by a steep mountain, which
Governor Macquarie has since named Mount York [Note: This mountain was
found to be 795 feet in perpendicular height above the vale of Clwydd.].
The valley [Note: Named by Governor Macquarie the Vale of Clwydd.] to
which it gave them access was covered with grass, and well watered by a
small stream running easterly, and which was subsequently found to fall
into the Nepean River. From Mount York they proceeded westerly eight or
ten miles, passing during the latter part of the way through an open
country, but broken into steep hills. Seeing that the stream before
mentioned as watering the valley ran easterly, it was evident they had
not yet crossed the ranges which it was supposed would give source to
waters falling westerly; they had however proceeded sufficiently far for
their purpose, and ascertained that no serious obstacles existed to a
farther progress westward.

Their provisions being nearly expended, they returned to Sydney, after
an absence of little more than a month; and the report of their
discoveries opened new prospects to the colonists, who had began to fear
that their narrow and confined limits would not long afford pasture and
subsistence for their greatly increasing flocks and herds.

His Excellency Governor Macquarie, with that promptitude which
distinguishes his character, resolved not to let slip so favourable an
opportunity of obtaining a farther knowledge of the interior. Mr. Evans,
the deputy surveyor, was directed to proceed With a party, and follow up
the discoveries already made. He crossed the Nepean River on the 20th of
November, 1813, and on the 26th arrived at the termination of Messrs.
Lawson, Blaxland, and Wentworth's journey. Proceeding westward, he
crossed a mountainous [Note: Since named Clarence Hilly Range.] broken
country, the grass of which was good, and the valleys well-watered, until
the 30th, when he came to a small stream, running westerly; this stream,
called by him the Fish River, he continued to trace until the 7th of
December, passing through a very fine country, adapted to every purpose
either of agriculture or grazing; when he met another stream coming from
the southward: this latter stream he named Campbell River, and when
joined with the Fish River, the united streams received the name of the
Macquarie River, in honour of his excellency the present governor of
New South Wales.

Mr. Evans continued to trace the Macquarie River until December the
18th, passing over rich tracts clear of timber, well-watered, and
offering every advantage which a country in its natural state can be
supposed to afford. During this excursion, Mr. Evans fell in with
abundance of kangaroos and emus, and the river abounded with fine
fish: he saw only six natives during the whole time of his absence,
viz. two women and four children, although on his return he observed many
fires in the neighbourhood of the mountains. On the 8th of January, 1814,
he returned to Emu Plains, having gone in the whole near one hundred
miles
in a direct line due west from the Nepean River.

From the report of Mr. Evans, Governor Macquarie was induced to believe
that a road might be opened for the whole distance already surveyed, and
was most anxious that the colony should reap as soon as possible the
advantages, which the discovery of such extensive and fertile tracts
seemed to open.

The ample means afforded for this purpose enabled Mr. Cox, to whose
superintendence this work was entrusted, to complete a road passable for
loaded carriages early in 1815. This road extended in length upwards of
one hundred miles, the first fifty of which passed along a narrow ridge
of the Blue Mountains, bounded on each side by deep ravines, and
precipitous rocks. The road which was cut down Mount York was a work of
considerable labour and magnitude, and reflected the highest credit
upon all employed in it. This important task being finished, the
governor resolved in person to visit a country of which so much had been
said, and to judge from actual observation how far the sanguine hopes
which had been entertained were likely to be realized; his excellency
therefore, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie and his suite, set out from Emu
Plains on the 26th of April, 1815, and arrived on the 4th of May at a
small encampment (the site of which had been previously selected), on
Bathurst Plains, near the termination of Mr. Evans's journey. Governor
Macquarie having been pleased to publish for the information of the
colonists such observations on the country as he deemed necessary, I
shall not presume to add any thing to an account, which so clearly and
accurately describes all that could be interesting or beneficial to the
colonist and general inquirer.

I have therefore inserted in the Appendix the account published by the
Governor in the Sydney Gazette, of the 10th of June, 1815, as affording
the best and most authentic information on the subject. During the
Governor's stay at Bathurst, he despatched Mr. Evans, and a party with a
month's provisions, to explore the country to the south-west, and it is
the result of that journey which led to the expedition, the direction of
which was entrusted to my command.

The means which his excellency placed at my disposal were well
calculated to attain the object in view, and it is a matter of the most
sincere regret, that the nature and description of the country which we
passed through was for the most part such as to afford few interesting
objects of research or remark.

The botanical productions of the country have however in a great measure
been ascertained by Mr. Allan Cunningham, the King's botanist, who
accompanied the expedition.

With respect to the construction of the chart prefixed to this Journal,
it is thought proper to observe, that the situation of the principal
stations of Bathurst, and the depot on the Lachlan River, were
ascertained by celestial observations, and connected by a series of
triangles, commencing at the latter point, and closing at Bathurst. New
base lines were frequently measured, and any unavoidable errors which
might arise from the nature of the country were corrected at every proper
opportunity by observed latitudes; so that on the return of the
expedition to Bathurst, I had the satisfaction to find the connection of
the angles complete, the error in the whole survey not exceeding a mile
of longitude.

The instruments chiefly used were a small theodolite by Ramsden, and
Kater's pocket compass [Note: A most valuable instrument, combining all
the advantages of the circumferentor, without being so liable to be
damaged and put out of order by carriage.], with the addition of an
excellent sextant, pocket chronometer, and artificial horizon. I have
to lament that our mountain barometers were broken at an early stage
of the expedition; the height however of some principal points had been
previously obtained, and is marked on the chart; these in two instances
were verified by geometrical measurement, and the difference was found
to be too trilling to be noticed. The conveyance of such delicate
instruments is always attended with great risk, and in our case
peculiarly so, our means being only those of horseback. I am afraid
that a method of constructing those instruments, so as to place them
beyond the reach of injury by carriage, will always remain among the
desiderata of science. I have given to our thermometrical observations
the form of a chart, as affording the readiest view of the atmospherical
changes which took place during our journey. The winds and weather are
also more particularly noticed on the same sheet than in the narrative.

It may perhaps be not superfluous to mention, that it is the intention
of His Majesty's Government to follow the course of the Macquarie River,
and it is sanguinely expected that the result of the contemplated
expedition will be such as to leave no longer in doubt the true
character of the country comprising the interior of this vast island. It
would be as presumptuous as useless to speculate on the probable
termination of the Macquarie River, when a few months will (it is to be
hoped) decide the long disputed point, whether Australia, with a surface
nearly as extensive as Europe, is, from its geological formation,
destitute of rivers, either terminating in interior seas, or having
their estuaries on the coast.

J. O.
Sydney, New South Wales,
Dec. 11, 1817.


ERRATA: 12 items of errata, listed in the book at this point,
have been corrected in this eBook.




JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA--Part I



On the twenty-fourth of March I received the instructions of his
excellency the Governor to take charge of the expedition which had been
fitted out for the purpose of ascertaining the course of the Lachlan
River, and generally to prosecute the examination of the western
interior of New South Wales.

On the sixth of April I quitted Sydney, and after a pleasant journey
arrived at Bathurst on the fourteenth, and found that our provisions
and other necessary stores were in readiness at the depot on the
Lachlan River. We were detained at Bathurst by rainy unfavourable
weather until the nineteenth, when the morning proving fine, the BAT
horses, with the remainder of the provisions, baggage, and instruments,
were sent off, we intending to follow them the ensuing morning.

Bathurst had assumed a very different appearance since I first visited
it in the suite of his excellency the Governor in 1815. The industrious
hand of man had been busy in improving the beautiful works of nature; a
good substantial house for the superintendant had been erected, the
government grounds fenced in, and the stack yards showed that the
abundant produce of the last harvest had amply repaid the labour
bestowed on its culture. The fine healthy appearance of the flocks and
herds was a convincing proof how admirably adapted these extensive downs
and thinly wooded hills are for grazing, more particularly of sheep. The
mind dwelt with pleasure on the idea that at no very distant period
these secluded plains would be covered with flocks bearing the richest
fleeces, and contribute in no small degree to the prosperity of the
eastern settlements.

The soil, in the immediate neighbourhood of Bathurst, is for the first
six inches of a light, black, vegetable mould, lying on a stratum of
sand, about eighteen inches deep, but of a poor description, and mixed
with small stones, under which is a strong clay. The surface of the
hills is covered with small gravel, the soil light and sandy, with a
sub-soil of clay. The low flats on the immediate borders of the river
are evidently formed by washings from the hills and valleys deposited by
floods, and the overflowings of the watercourses.

Sunday, April 20.--Proceeded on our journey towards the Lachlan River.
At two o'clock we arrived at the head of Queen Charlotte's Valley,
passing through a fine open grazing country; the soil on the hills and
in the vale a light clayey loam, occasionally intermixed with sand and
gravel: the late rains had rendered the ground soft and boggy. The trees
were small and stunted, and thinly scattered over the hills, which
frequently closed in stony points on the valley. The rocks a coarse
granite.

Monday, April 21.--Our journey for the greater part of the way lay over
stony ridges, and for the last six miles over a country much wooded with
ill-grown gum and stringy bark trees (all of the eucalyptus genus); the
grass good, and in tolerable plenty, and much more so than the
appearance of the soil would seem to promise. At three o'clock, the
horses being very much fatigued, we stopped under the point of a rocky
hill for the evening.

April 22.--A clear and frosty morning. Last night was the coldest we had
yet experienced, the thermometer being at six o'clock as low as 26. We
felt the cold most severely, being far beyond what we had been
accustomed to on the coast; the difference of temperature in twelve
hours being upwards of twenty degrees of cold. Our route lay through a
dull uninteresting country, thickly covered with dwarf timber, daviesia,
etc. Passed under Mount Lachlan, a hill of very considerable height; a
stream of water runs north-westerly under its base. Turned off a little
from our track to the right, and ascended Mount Molle, whence there is a
beautiful and extensive prospect from the south by the west to the
north. The country (except the dividing range between the Lachlan and
Macquarie Rivers, which is very lofty and irregular) rising into gentle
hills, thinly timbered, with rich intervening valleys, through which
flow small streams of water. I think from Mount Molle, between the
points above mentioned, a distance of forty miles round may he seen; the
view to the west being lost in the blue haze of the horizon, no hills
appearing in that quarter. The Mount itself is a fine rich hill,
favourably situated for a commanding prospect; the valleys which
surround it are excellent land, well watered with running streams. We
descended its west side, and stopped for the night in the valley
beneath, on the banks of a small rivulet.

April 23.--A fine clear morning. At two o'clock we arrived at Limestone
Creek, passing through a beautiful picturesque country of low hills and
fine valleys well watered: the timber, as usual of diminutive growth,
and unfit for any useful purpose. The ridges of the higher eminences
were invariably stony, and about a mile and a half from the Creek, there
is a narrow slip of barren country covered with small slate stones: the
soil until then was on the sides of the hills of a fine vegetable mould,
the more level and lower grounds a hazel-coloured stiff loam, both
equally
covered with grass, particularly the anthistria. The timber standing
at wide intervals, without any brush or undergrowth, gave the country a
fine park-like appearance. I never saw a country better adapted for the
grazing of all kinds of stock than that we passed over this day. The
limestone, which is the first that has hitherto been discovered in
Australia, abounds in the valley where we halted; the sides and abrupt
projections of the hills being composed entirely of it, and worn by the
operation of time into a thousand whimsical shapes and forms. A small
stream runs through the valley, which in June 1815 was dry; the bottom
of this rivulet was covered with a variety of stones, but the bases of
the hills which projected into it, and from which the earth had been
washed, were of pure limestone of a bluish grey colour.

April 24.--A fine mild morning. A small piece of limestone which had
been put in the fire last night was found perfectly calcined into the
purest white lime. At eight o'clock proceeded on our journey, through a
very uninteresting but good grazing country: nature here seemed to have
assumed her tamest and most unvarying hue. The soil of the country we
passed through was generally excellent, but the timber was still as
useless as we had hitherto found it. We arrived about one o'clock at a
small pond of water, where it was necessary to stop, as there was no
other water nearer than the Lachlan River, which was distant about
fourteen miles.

April 25.--Our course for the first seven or eight miles was through a
level open country, the soil and grass indifferently good. We now
ascended a hill a little to the left of the road, for the purpose of
viewing the country through which the river ran: it appeared a perfect
plain encompassed by moderately high hills, except in the south-east
and west quarters, these being apparently the points whence and to which
the river flows. The whole country a forest of eucalypti, with
occasionally on the banks of the river a space clear of timber: there
was nothing either grand or interesting in the view from this hill,
neither did I see in any direction such high land as might be expected
to give source to a river of magnitude. When we quitted the hill, we
went west, to make the Lachlan River, passing for nearly six miles over
a perfect level, the land poor, and in places scrubby. At two o'clock
saw the river, which certainly did not disappoint me: it was evidently
much higher than usual, running a strong stream; the banks very steep,
but not so as to render the water inaccessible: the land on each side
quite flat, and thinly clothed with small trees; the soil a rich light
loam: higher points occasionally projected on the river, and on those
the soil was by no means so good. The largest trees were growing
immediately at the water's edge on both sides, and from their position
formed an arch over the river, obscuring it from observation, although
it was from thirty to forty yards across. At four o'clock we arrived at
the depot.

We had scarcely alighted from our horses, when natives were seen in
considerable numbers on the other side of the river. I went down
opposite to them, and after some little persuasion about twenty of them
swam across, having their galengar or stone hatchet in one hand, which
on their landing they threw at our feet, to show us that they were as
much divested of arms as ourselves. After staying a short time they were
presented with some kangaroo flesh, with which they re-crossed the
river, and kindled their fires. They were very stout and manly, well
featured, with long beards: there were a few cloaks among them made of
the opossum skin, and it was evident that some of the party had been at
Bathurst, from their making use of several English words, and from their
readily comprehending many of our questions.

April 26.--Fine clear warm weather. The natives were still on the
opposite bank, and five of them came over to us in the course of the
morning; but remained a very short time. During the last night a few
fine shrimps were caught; the soldiers stationed at the depot said they
had frequently taken them in considerable numbers. During the day
arranged the loads for the boats and horses, that they might be enabled
to set off early the next morning.

April 27.--Loaded the boats with as much of the salt provisions as they
could safely carry, and despatched them to wait at the first creek about
seven or eight miles down the river until the loaded horses came, and
then to assist in taking their loads over the creek; intending myself to
follow with the remainder of the baggage early to-morrow morning.

The observations which were made here placed the depot in lat. 33. 40.
S.,
and in long. 148. 21. E., the variation of the needle being 7. 47. E.
The barometrical observations, which had been regularly taken from Sydney
to this place, did not give us an elevation of more than six hundred feet
above the level of the sea; a circumstance which, considering our
distance
from the west coast, surprised me much.

The few words of which we were enabled to obtain the meaning from the
natives who occasionally visited its, being different from those used by
the natives on the east coast, it way perhaps be interesting to insert
them.

AUSTRALIAN.     ENGLISH.

Nh-air,         The eyebrows.
Whada,          The ears.
Ulan-gar,)      The head.
Nat-tang,)
Anany,          The beard.
Morro,          The nose.
Er-ra,          The teeth.
Mill-a,         The eyes.
Narra,          The fingers.
Bulla-yega,     The hair of the head.
Chu-ang,        The mouth.
0-ro,           The neck.
Bargar,         The arms.
Ben-ing,        The breast.
Bur-bing,       The belly.
Mille-aar,      The loins.
Dha-na,         The thighs.
Wolm-ga,        The knees.
Dhee-nany,      The feet.
Dhu-a,          The back.
Mor-aya,        Bones worn in the cartilage of the nose.
Mada,           Skins, with which they are clothed.
Wamb-aur,       Scars, raised for ornament, or distinction,
                on their bodies.
Gum-iil,        Girdles worn round the body.
Un-elenar,      One night.
Gow,            Woman.
Mar-o-gu-la,    Another tribe.
Mem-aa,         A native man.
Wam-aa,         A kind of hornet's-nest, which they eat.
Warenur,        Fire.
Curr-eli,       Timber, or trees.
Galu-nur,       Thistles, the roots of which they eat.
Gulura,         The moon.
Yandu,          Sleep.
Galen-gar,)
Ori-al,   )     Stone hatchets.
Ta-wi-uth,)

The above were all the words the meaning of which we could clearly
comprehend: the words used by the natives on the coast to express the
same objects have not the remotest resemblance to the above.

April 28.--Fine clear mild weather. Proceeded with the remainder of the
baggage to join the boats down the river; arrived at Lewis's Creek,
which, although nearly dry when crossed by Mr. Evans in 1815, is now a
considerable stream. The distance from the depot is about nine miles;
the country on both banks of the river low but good: the upper levels
would afford excellent grazing, but the soil is of inferior quality: the
points of the low hills end alternately on each side the river. The land
up both banks of Lewis's Creek is very rich, and covered with herbage.
The boats had come safely down the river, although the large boat
grounded
once; the river appears to me to be from three to five feet above its
usual level.

Several specimens of crystallized quartz were found on the adjoining
hills, also some small pieces of good iron ore.

April 29.--Proceeded on our journey down the river, directing the boats
to stop at the creek which terminated Mr. Evans's former journey. The
country through which we passed this day in every respect resembles the
tracts we have already gone over. The crowns and ridges of the hills are
uniformly stony and barren, ending as before alternately on each side of
the river; the greater proportion of good flat land lies on the south
side of the river; there are however very rich and fertile tracts on
this side. After riding about eight miles, we ascended a considerable
hill upon our right, from the top of which we could see to a considerable
distance; between the south-west and north-north-west, a very low level
tract lay west of us, and no hill whatever bounded the view in that
quarter. Three remarkable hummocks bore respectively S. 72. W.,
S. 51 1/2 W. and S. 34 1/2 W., within which range of bearing the country
was uniformly level, or rising into such low hills, as not to be
distinguished from the general surface. The tops of distant ranges could
be discerned over low hills in the north-west, whilst, from north by the
east to south, the country was broken into hill and valley. The whole of
this extensive scene was covered with eucalypti, whilst on the rocky
summits of the hills in the immediate neighbourhood a species of
callitris was eminently distinguished. From this extensive view I named
the hill Mount Prospect.

At five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the place where the
horses had been directed to wait for the boats, but they had not
arrived; the distance is at least doubled by following the immediate
course of the stream, but I had calculated that its rapidity would make
up for the distance, and enable the boats to keep pace with the horses.

At six o'clock the boats arrived safe, the men having had a very
fatiguing row, and been obliged to clear the passage of fallen trees,
and other obstructions; so that we determined to give them some repose,
and halt here for the night. At half past eight o'clock proceeded down
the river, intending to stop at the termination of Mr. Evans's journey
in 1815, about five miles further, for the purpose of repairing the
small boat, which had sustained some slight damage in coming down the
river yesterday. I rode about three miles back into the country; the
callitris was here more frequent, though not of large growth; the soil
is not good. In returning to the river we came upon the creek which
terminated Mr. Evans's journey, down which we travelled until we came to
the river, about half a mile from which is a large shallow lagoon, full
of ducks, bustards, black swans and red-hills. At twelve o'clock the
horses arrived at the mouth of the creek, and the boats half an hour
afterwards. The banks of the creek were very steep, and it was three
o'clock before all the provisions were got over. The creek was named
Byrne's Creek, after one of the present party, who had accompanied Mr.
Evans in his former journey.

May 1.--The creek fell upwards of a foot during the night, by which some
of the articles in the large boat received damage. Commenced the survey
of the river from this point. The flats on both sides the river were
very extensive, and in general good; the same timber and grass as usual;
the stream was from thirty to forty yards broad on an average. There was
not even a hillock on which to ascend during this day's route, so that
our view was bounded by less than a mile on each side of the river.
Traces of the natives were observed, but no natives were seen. The boats
were much impeded by fallen timber: it was half past two o'clock when
they arrived at the place where I intended to halt, although we had only
gone between nine and ten miles.

The trees on the immediate banks of the river were very large and
ramified, but few of them were useful: another species of callitris was
seen to-day.

May 2.--Our journey this day was very fatiguing, the grass being nearly
breast high, thick, and entangled. The soil is tolerably good within a
mile and a half of the banks: I rode five or six miles out, in hopes of
finding some eminence on which to ascend, but was disappointed, the
country continuing a dead level, with extensive swamps, and barren
brushes. The timber, dwarf box, and gum trees (all eucalypti), with a
few cypresses and casuarinas, scattered here and there: few traces of
the natives were seen, and none recent. Upon the swamps were numerous
swans and other wild fowl. In the evening we caught nearly a hundred
weight of fine fish.

May 3.--Proceeded down the river. We passed over a very barren desolate
country, perfectly level, without even the slightest eminence, covered
with dwarf box-trees and scrubby bushes; towards the latter part of the
day a few small cypresses were seen. I think the other side of the river
is much the same. We have hitherto met with no water except at the
river, and a few shallow lagoons, which are evidently dry in summer. I
do not know how far this level extends north and south, but I cannot
estimate it at less than from ten to twelve miles on each side; but this
is mere conjecture, since for the last three days I have been unable to
see beyond a mile: I have, however, occasionally made excursions of
five or six miles, and never perceived any difference in the elevation
of the country. To-day the course of the river has been a little south
of west: its windings are very frequent and sudden, fully accounting for
the apparent heights of the floods, of which marks were observed about
thirty-six feet above the level of the stream. At six o'clock the boats
had not arrived; and as I had given directions on no account to attempt
to proceed after dark, I ceased to expect them this evening.

May 4.--As soon as it was light I sent two men up the river to search
for the boat: at nine o'clock one of them returned, having found it
about four miles back. It appeared that the large boat had got stoved
against a tree under water, and that the people were obliged to unload
and haul her on shore to undergo some repairs, which they had effected;
but the rain prevented them from paying her bottom. They expected to be
able to proceed in an hour or two, as the weather had begun to clear up.
It was fortunate that no damage had befallen any part of the boat's
lading. At twelve proceeded about three quarters of a mile down the
river, and from a small eminence half a mile north of it, an extensive
tract of clear country was seen, bearing N. 50. W., about two or three
miles from us, having a low range of hills bounding them in the
direction of S. 65. W. and N. 65. E. The river wound immediately under
the hill, taking a westerly direction as far as I went, which was about
three miles; its windings were very sudden, and its width and depth much
the same as before. The country, as far as I could see, was precisely
similar to that already passed over: the hills were slaty and barren,
with a few small cypresses: in fact, I have seen them grow on no other
spots so frequently as on those stony hills. The boats arrived about two
o'clock.

May 5.--Proceeded down the river, ascended the eminence mentioned
yesterday, and from the top of a cypress tree a very distant view of the
whole country was obtained: the opening through which the river
apparently runs bore S. 75 1/2 W.; the country to the south and
south-west extremely low. A range of hills, lying nearly east and west,
bounded the level tract on the other side of the river; these hills and
two or three detached hammocks excepted, there was nothing to break the
uniformity of the scene.

The country was in general poor, with partial tracts of better ground;
the hills were slaty, and covered as well as the levels with small
eucalypti, cypresses, and casuarinas. About a mile from this place we
fell in with a small tribe of natives, consisting of eight men; their
women we did not see. They did not appear any way alarmed at the sight
of us, but came boldly up: they were covered with cloaks made of opossum
skins; their faces daubed with a red and yellow pigment, with neatly
worked nets bound round their hair: the front tooth in the upper row was
wanting in them all: they were unarmed, having nothing with them but
their stone hatchets. It appeared from their conduct that they had
either seen or heard of white people before, and were anxious to depart,
accompanying the motion of going with a wave of their hand.

About three miles from our last night's halting-place we had to cross a
small creek, the banks of which were so steep that we were obliged to
unload the horses. I rode up the creek about three quarters of a mile,
and came upon those extensive plains before-mentioned; the soil of this
level appears a good loamy clay, but in some places very wet: it was far
too extensive to permit us to traverse much of it; we saw sufficient to
judge that the whole surface was similar to that we examined; it was
covered with a great variety of new plants, and its margin encircled by
a new species of acacia, which received the specific name of PENDULA,
from its resembling in habit the weeping willow. Low hills to the north
bounded this plain, whilst a slip of barren land, covered with small
trees and shrubs, lay between it and the river.

It appeared to me that the whole of these flats are occasionally
overflowed by the river, the water of which is forced up the creek
before-mentioned, and which again acts as a drain on the fall of the
water.

At four o'clock we halted for the evening, after a fatiguing day's
journey; the boats were obliged to cut their passage three or four
times, and the whole navigation was difficult and dangerous: the current
ran with much rapidity, and the channel seemed rather to contract than
widen. We were obliged to stop on a very barren desolate spot, with
little grass for the horses; but further on the country appeared even
worse. The south bank of the river (as far as I could judge) is
precisely similar to that which we are travelling down. The clear levels
examined to-day were named the Solway Flats. Many fish were caught here,
one of which weighed upwards of thirty pounds.

May 6.--Proceeded down the river. It is impossible to fancy a worse
country than the one we were now travelling over, intersected by swamps
and small lagoons in every direction; the soil a poor clay, and covered
with stunted useless timber. It was excessively fatiguing to the horses
which travelled along the banks of the river, as the rubus and
anthistiria
were so thickly intermingled, that they could scarcely force a passage.
After proceeding about eight miles, a bold rocky mount terminated on the
river, and broke the sameness which had so long wearied us: we ascended
this hill, which I named Mount Amyot, and from the summit had one of the
most extensive views that can be imagined. On the opposite side of the
river was another hill precisely similar to Mount Amyot, leaving a
passage between them for the river, and the immense tract of level
country to the eastward; this hill was named Mount Stuart. Vast plains
clear of timber lay on the south side of the river, and which, from our
having travelled on a level with them, it was impossible for us to
distinguish before. These plains I named Hamilton's Plains, and they
were bounded by hills of considerable elevation to the southward; whilst
the whole level country thus bounded was honoured with the designation
of Princess Charlotte's Crescent.

To the west of Mount Amyot the view was equally extensive, being bounded
only by the horizon; some high detached hills, rising like islands from
the ocean, broke, in some measure, the sameness of the prospect. I
estimated that in the west north-west I could see at least forty miles,
and in the south south-west as far; the view in other points being
slightly interrupted by low ranges of hills, rising occasionally to
points of considerable elevation: none of those elevated spots was
nearer than twenty-five or thirty miles, and considerable spaces of
clear ground could, by the assistance of the telescope, be distinguished,
interspersed amidst the ocean of trees whence those hills arise: a long
broken mountain, bearing W. 32 1/2. N., was named Mount Melville;
one W. 24. N. Mount Cunningham; and another, bearing S. 70. W. Mount
Maude. Smoke, arising from the fires of the wandering inhabitants of
these
desolate regions was seen in several quarters. At four o'clock we stopped
for the evening, about three miles west of Mount Amyot.

I have reason to believe that the whole of the tract named Princess
Charlotte's Crescent is at times drowned by the overflowing of the
river; the marks of flood were observed in every direction, and the
waters in the marshes and lagoons were all traced as being derived from
the
river. During a course of upwards of seventy miles not a single running
stream emptied itself into the river on either side; and I am forced to
conclude that in common seasons this whole tract is extremely badly
watered, and that it derives its principal if not only supply from the
river within the bounding ranges Of Princess Charlotte's Crescent. There
are doubtless many small eminences which might afford a retreat from the
inundations, but those which were observed by us were too trifling and
distant from each other to stand out distinct from the vast level
surface which the crescent presents to the view. The soil of the country
we passed over was a poor and cold clay; but there are many rich levels
which, could they be drained and defended from the inundations of the
river, would amply repay the cultivation. These flats are certainly not
adapted for cattle; the grass is too swampy, and the bushes, swamps, and
lagoons, are too thickly intermingled with the better portions to render
it either a safe or desirable grazing country. The timber is universally
bad and small; a few large misshapen gum trees on the immediate banks of
the river may be considered as exceptions. If however the country itself
is poor, the river is rich in the most excellent fish, procurable in the
utmost abundance. One man in less than an hour caught eighteen large
fish,
one of which was a curiosity from its immense size, and the beauty of its
colours. In shape and general form it most resembled a cod, but was
speckled over with brown, blue, and yellow spots, like a leopard's skin;
its gills and belly a clear white, the tail and fins a dark brown. It
weighed entire seventy pounds, and without the entrails sixty-six pounds:
it is somewhat singular that in none of these fish is any thing found
in the stomach, except occasionally a shrimp or two. The dimensions of
this fish were as follow:

                                            Feet. Inches.

Length from the nose to the tail              3     5
Circumference round the shoulders             2     6
Fin to fin over the back                      1     5
Circumference near the anus                   1     9
Breadth of the tail                           1     1 1/2
Circumference of the mouth opened             1     6
Depth of the swallow                          1 foot.

Most of the other fish taken this evening weighed from fifteen to thirty
pounds each, and were of the same kind as the above.

May 7.--A fine clear frosty morning. The horses having been much
fatigued by the two last days' journey, I determined to halt to-day
instead of Saturday, as the grass was good, which is more than could be
said of it for some days past. Observed the latitude to be 33. 22. 59. S.

May 8.--Proceeded down the river. Our general course was westerly, and
the country, though equally level with any we had passed, improved in
the quality of the soil, which, during the greater part of to-day's
route, was a good vegetable mould, the land thickly covered with small
acacia and dwarf trees. On the south side of the river it was apparently
the same; and the whole we passed over bore evident marks of being
subject to inundations.

The banks of the river were, I think, much lower, not exceeding fifteen
or twenty feet high, and they were rather clearer of timber than before.
The casuarina, which used to line the banks, was now seldom seen, the
acacia pendula seeming to take its place. We stopped for the night on a
plain of good land, flooded, but clear of timber: large flocks of emus
were feeding on it, and we were fortunate enough to kill a very large
one after a fine chase. At three o'clock, the boats not having arrived,
I sent a man back to look for them; at eight he returned, having found
them about six miles up the river, unable to proceed until morning,
having met with continual interruptions from fallen trees. These
impediments in the navigation of the river obstruct our progress very
materially, and its windings continue so great and frequent, that the
distance travelled by land is nearly trebled by water.

May 9.--The boats not having arrived at ten o'clock, Mr. Evans proceeded
with the BAT horses another stage down the river. Mr. Cunningham and I
waited to bring up the boats, which shortly afterwards came in sight. We
proceeded to join the horses, which we did about five o'clock, the boats
having gone in that time nearly thirty-six miles, although the distance
from the last station did not exceed seven in a direct line.

The country we had passed through during this day's route was extremely
low, consisting of extensive plains divided by lines of small trees:
the banks of the river, and the deep bights formed by the irregularity
of its course, were covered with acacia bushes and dwarf trees. The
river, at the spot where we stopped, wound along the edge of an
extensive low plain, being at least six miles long and three or four
broad; these I called Field's Plains, after the judge of the supreme
court of this territory; they are the same which we saw from the top of
Mount Amyot. The soil of these plains is a light clayey loam, very wet
in many places; they were fringed round with that beautiful tree, the
acacia pendula, which here seems to perform the part of the willow in
Europe; the cypresses were also more frequent, and the banks of the
river much lower than even those we passed yesterday. I cannot help
thinking that the whole of this extensive region has been at some time
or other under water, and that the present river is the drain by which
the waters have been conveyed to lower grounds. It is evident that even
now the plains (on those parts clear of trees) are frequently under
water, and that at very high floods the wooded lands are so too, for it
is almost impossible to distinguish any difference in their elevation;
but the wooded lands, from being actually higher, seem to have given
time for the growth of the diminutive timber with which they are
covered, whereas the lower plains are too frequently covered to give
time for such growth.

May 10.--The horses having strayed in the night, and it being nearly
noon before they were found, I determined to make this a halting day.

These plains are much more extensive than I supposed yesterday, and many
new plants were found on them. The river rose upwards of a foot during
the night, and still continues to rise; a circumstance which appears
very singular to me, there having been no rains of any magnitude for the
last five weeks, and none at all for the last ten days. We are also
certain that no waters fall into it or join it easterly for nearly one
hundred and fifty miles. This rise must therefore be occasioned by heavy
rains in the mountains, whence the river derives its source; but it is
not the less singular, that during its whole course, as far as it is
hitherto known, it does not receive a single tributary stream. Observed
the latitude 33. 16. 33. S.

May 11.--The river rose about four feet during the night, and still
continues to rise. Set forward on our journey down the river. About four
miles and a half from this morning's station. the river began to wash
the immediate edge of the plain, and so continued to do all along. My
astonishment was extreme at finding the banks of the river not more than
six feet from the water: it at once confirmed my supposition that the
whole of this extensive country is frequently inundated; the river was
here about thirty yards broad. Mount Cunningham was at this time distant
about two miles, and Mount Melville four miles; the plains winding
immediately under the base of each. At twelve o'clock ascended the south
end of Mount Cunningham, a small branch of the river running close under
it. From this elevation our view was very extensive in every direction,
particularly in the west quarter. The whole country in that direction
was so low, that it might not improperly be termed a swamp, the spaces
which were bare of trees being more constantly under water than those
where they grew. A remarkable peaked hill bearing W. 27 1/4. N. was
named Hurd's Peak [Note: After Captain Hurd, Hydrographer to the
Admiralty.], and a lofty hummock S. 83 1/2. W, Mount Meyrick: these were
the only elevations of any consequence in the western direction. To the
north, low ranges of rocky hills bounded the swamps, which on the south
had a similar boundary, except that occasionally a bolder rocky
projection would obtrude itself on the flat.

On descending from the hill, we proceeded to the point where the
north-west arm is separated from the main branch, but apparently to join
it in water, bearing from Mount Cunningham W. 40. N.: on arriving there
we found the boats and horses. The crew of the former reported, that an
equally considerable branch of the river, with that down which they had
come, had turned off to the south-west, about two miles below the place
where we stopped last night. After directing the horses and baggage to
be got over the north-west arm, I returned to examine the branch passed
by the boats, and found it at least as considerable as that which we
were pursuing. I am in hopes that when again joined, the width and depth
of the river will be considerably increased. At half past four returned
to the tents on the north-west arm. The river (from whatever cause) was
still rising, and no part of the banks was more than four feet above
the level of the water. I consider that the river may have from eight to
ten feet more water in it than usual: its present average depth is about
eighteen feet.

The soil of these extensive plains, designated Field's Plains, is for
the most part extremely rich, as indeed might be expected, from the
deposition of the quantities of vegetable matter that must take place in
periods of flood. The plains are in some places even lower than the
ground forming the immediate bank of the river, very soft, and difficult
for loaded horses to pass over. If we had been so unfortunate as to have
had a rainy season, it would have been utterly impossible to have come
thus far by land. The ranges of hills are unconnected, and are rocky and
barren; the swamps for the most part surrounding them. Mount Cunningham
is a lofty rocky hill, about a mile and a half long, composed of granite
rock, but entirely surrounded by low swampy ground.

Here we were so unfortunate as to find the barometer broken, the horse
which carried the instruments having thrown his load in passing the
swamps: every precaution had been taken in the packing to prevent such
an accident, which was the more to be regretted, as it interrupted a
chain of observations by which I hoped to ascertain the height of the
country with tolerable accuracy. The last observations that were made,
reduced to this place, gave us an elevation of not more than five
hundred feet above the sea, or about a hundred feet lower than the
country at the depot.

Since the river has been swollen, the fish have eluded us, none having
been caught since yesterday morning. Two black swans were however shot
on the river. Our present situation is by no means enviable: in the
first place, there is every chance that the river may be lost in a
multitude of branches, among those marshy flats, and farther navigation
thus rendered impossible; and in the second, a rise of four feet in the
river would sweep us all away, since we have not the smallest eminence
to retreat to. Should the river lead through to the westward, and be
afterwards joined by the branches we have passed, it may become
something more interesting and encouraging: a wet or even a partially
rainy season will, in my judgment, preclude us from returning by our
present route, more especially if these low countries continue for any
distance.

I am by no means surprised at the paucity of natives that have been
seen: it would be quite impossible in wet seasons to inhabit these
marshes, and equally so for them to retreat in times of flood. Their
fires are universally observed near the higher grounds, and no traces of
any thing like a permanent camp has hitherto been seen; but in many
places
on the banks quantities of pearl muscle-shells were found near the
remains
of fires. That large species of bittern, known on the east-coast by the
local name of Native Companions, I believe from the circumstance of their
being always seen in pairs, was observed, on the flats, of very large
size, exceeding six feet in height: they were so shy that we were unable
to shoot any.

May 12.--The fine weather still continues to favour us. The river rose
in the course of the night upwards of a foot. It is a probable
supposition that the natives, warned by experience of these dangerous
flats, rather choose to seek a more precarious, but more safe
subsistence in the mountainous and rocky ridges which are occasionally
to be met with. The river and lagoons abound with fish and fowl, and it
is scarcely reasonable to suppose that the natives would not avail
themselves of such store of food, if the danger of procuring it did not
counterbalance the advantages they might otherwise derive from such
abundance.

About three quarters of a mile farther westward we had to cross another
small arm of the river, running to the northward, which although now
full, is, I should think, dry when the river is at its usual level. It
is probable that this and the one which we first crossed join each other
a few miles farther to the westward, and then both united fall into the
stream which gave them existence. We had scarcely proceeded a mile from
the last branch, before it became evident that it would be impossible to
advance farther in the direction in which we were travelling. The stream
here overflowed both banks, and its course was lost among marshes: its
channel not being distinguishable from the surrounding waters.

Observing an eminence about half a mile from the south side, we crossed
over the horses and baggage at a Place where the water was level with
the banks, and which when within its usual channel did not exceed thirty
or forty feet in width, its depth even now being only twelve feet.

We ascended the hill, and had the mortification to perceive the
termination of our research, at least down this branch of the river: the
whole country from the west north-west round to north was either a
complete marsh or lay under water, and this for a distance of
twenty-five or thirty miles, in those directions; to the south and
south-west the country appeared more elevated, but low marshy grounds
lay between us and it, which rendered it impossible for us to proceed
thither from our present situation. I therefore determined to return
back to the place where the two branches of the principal river
separated, and follow the south-west branch as far as it should be
navigable; our fears were however stronger than our hopes, lest it
would end in a similar manner to the one we had already traced, until it
became no longer navigable for boats.

In pursuance of this intention we descended the hill, which was named
Farewell Hill, from its being the termination of our journey in a
north-west direction at least for the present, and proceeded up the
south bank of the stream. We were able to reach only a short distance
from the spot where we stopped last night, having been obliged to unload
the horses no less than four times in the course of the day, added to
which, the travelling loaded through those dreadful marshes had
completely exhausted them: my own horse, in searching for a better
track, was nearly lost, and it consumed four hours to advance scarcely
half a mile.

My disappointment at the interruption of our labours in this quarter was
extreme, and what was worse, no flattering prospect appeared of our
succeeding better in the examination of the south-west branch. I was
however determined to see the present end of the river in all its
branches, before I should finally quit it, in furtherance of the other
objects of the expedition.

May 13.--Returned to the point whence the river separates into two
branches; intending first to descend the south-west branch for some
distance before the boats and baggage should move down, being unwilling
the horses should undergo an useless fatigue in traversing such marshy
ground, unless the branch should prove of sufficient magnitude to take
us a considerable distance; conceiving it an object of the first
importance that the horses should start fresh, if I should find it
necessary to quit the river at this point of the coast.

May 14.--This branch of the river has fallen about a foot. Having
directed the casks in the boats to be prepared for slinging on the
horses, and the tools and arms to be put in order preparatory to leaving
the river, I proceeded to examine the branch. After going about four
miles down, it took a similar direction (north-westerly) to that which
we had previously traced. The banks on both sides were a mere marsh, and
about six miles down, a small arm from it supplied the marshes between
this and the north-west branch. The fall of the country from the
south-east to the north-west was very remarkable; the water in the
branch was here nearly level with the banks, and was narrowed to a
width of not more than twenty feet. Finding that it would be equally as
impracticable to follow this branch as the other, I returned and
commenced preparations for setting out for the coast, which I purpose
not to do until Sunday, in order that the horses may be refreshed, as
they will at first be most heavily laden.

My present intention is to take a south-west direction for Cape
Northumberland, since should any river be formed from those marshes,
which is extremely probable, and fall into the sea between Spencer's
Gulf and Cape Otway, this course will intersect it, and no river or
stream can arise from these swamps without being discovered. The body of
water now running in both the principal branches is very considerable,
fully sufficient to have constituted a river of magnitude, if it had
constantly maintained such a supply of water, and had not become
separated into branches, and lost among the immense marshes of this
desolate and barren country, which seems here to form a vast concavity
to receive them. It is impossible to arrive at any certain opinion as to
what finally becomes of these waters, but I think it probable, from the
appearance of the country, and its being nearly on a level with the sea,
that they are partly absorbed by the soil, and the remainder lost by
evaporation.

May 15.--Mr. Cunningham made an excursion under Mount Melville, and
found the country in that direction as full of stagnant water as to the
north-west. Some tracts rather more raised above the usual level were
barren, and covered with acacia scrubs. The natives had been recently
under Mount Melville, perhaps to the number of a dozen: abundance of
large pearl muscle-shells was found about their deserted fireplaces, but
these shells had been apparently some months out of water.

May 16.--Felled a tree of the acacia pendula, the wood extremely hard
and beautiful; a black resinous juice exuded from the heart, which much
resembled the black part of the lignum vitae. Our observations placed
this spot in latitude 33. 15. 34. S.; longitude 147. 16. E. and the
variation of the compass 7. 0. 8. E.

May 17.--After reducing our luggage as much as possible, we sent every
thing down the branch about two miles, and landed on the south shore;
got every thing in readiness for proceeding on our journey to-morrow;
hauled up the boats on the south bank, and secured them, together with
such heavy articles as we could not take with us. The provisions
occupied our whole fourteen horses, including my own, and each will
still be very heavily laden.

May 18.--At nine o'clock we commenced our journey towards the coast; at
three stopped within four miles of Mount Maude, on a dry creek, with
occasional pools of very indifferent water. The country through which we
passed from the branch was for the first three miles very low and wet,
with large lagoons of water. During the latter part of the journey the
country was more elevated though still level, the soil light and rotten,
and overrun with the acacia pendula. The horses being very heavily laden
fell repeatedly during the early part of the day. Our course was nearly
south-west, and we performed about ten miles.

May 19.--At two miles passed over a low rocky range connected with Mount
Maude: the remainder of our day's journey (nearly twelve miles) lay
chiefly through a barren level country, the ground rather studded than
covered with grass, and that only in patches, by far the greater part
producing no grass at all. The trees were chiefly cypresses, a new
species of staculia, together with scrubs of the acacia pendula. The
soil a light red sand, the lower levels being stronger and more clayey.
We did not meet with any water, and were obliged to stop in the middle
of an acacia brush, the horses being too much fatigued to proceed
farther, and as the country had been lately burnt, the grass was a
little better than usual. At four o'clock sent two men to search for
water, and in about half an hour they returned, having found several
small ponds of good water about three quarters of a mile to the
south-west: the swamp appeared to extend to the northward a considerable
distance. Several native huts were on the edge of one of the ponds, but
they had not been recently inhabited.

May 20.--Proceeded forward south-west eleven miles through a most barren
desolate country, the soil a light red sand, literally parched up with
drought, there being no appearance of rain having fallen for several
months. The country through which we passed being a perfect plain
overrun with acacia scrubs, we could not see in any direction above a
quarter of a mile; I therefore halted at two o'clock on purpose to gain
time to find water before sunset, as we had seen no other signs of any
on our route than a few dry pits. It is impossible to imagine a more
desolate region; and the uncertainty we are in, whilst traversing it, of
finding water, adds to the melancholy feelings which the silence and
solitude of such wastes is calculated to inspire.

The search for water was unsuccessful, about three gallons of muddy
liquid being all that could be procured: our horses and dogs, I am
afraid, were the greatest sufferers.

May 21.--The water was so extremely bad that, pressed as we were by
thirst, we could scarcely even by twice boiling it render it drinkable.
After travelling ten or eleven miles through a country equally barren
and destitute with that of yesterday, without meeting with the least
appearance of water, and the horses being completely worn out, I
determined to halt on a small patch of burnt grass; two of the horses
had fallen several times under their loads, and nothing but the
evenness of the road enabled us to reach thus far. The same level plain
extended on all sides, and our view was confined to the scrubby brush
around us. A small hollow lying across our track, I sent a man on
horseback to trace it, in hopes it might lead to water: he returned
about four o'clock with the joyful news that he had found water in a
large swamp about five miles to the north-west: he also saw a native,
who however ran too swiftly to allow him to come up with him. This was
the first living creature of any kind we had seen since we quitted the
river. Both the kangaroo and emu seem to have deserted these plains for
other parts of the country better watered, and affording them more food.
The horses being utterly unable to proceed without rest, I determined to
remain here to-morrow to refresh them.

May 22.--The nights cold and frosty, the days warm and clear: I think it
is very evident that the altitude of the country declines in a
remarkable manner to the north-west; from the south-east to the
south-west it appears nearly of the same elevation; and in travelling we
appear to be going along an inclined plane, the lowest edges being from
west to north. I went about five miles to the north-west to the place
whence the water was procured; the country poor, and as barren as can
well be imagined; the soil a light red sand, acacia scrubs, small
box-trees, and a few miserable cypresses.

May 23.--Our route lay through a country equally bad, if not worse, than
any which we had passed the preceding days: in some places it was
difficult for the horses to force a passage through the brush;
occasionally low stony ridges intervened, which, when viewed from higher
eminences, were not to be detected from the plain out of which they
rose. The soil was alternately a sterile sand and a hardened clay,
without grass of any description: the country appeared to form the
bottom of a dry morass, and I am convinced if the weather had not been
dry for a considerable time, travelling would have been impossible.
After proceeding ten miles we were obliged to stop, the horses being
unable to go further. We had seen no signs of water during our route,
but stopping at a stony water-course we were in hopes of finding a
sufficiency to supply our wants, and on a hill at the end of it, about a
quarter of a mile to the westward, water was found.

May 24.--A day of rest and preparation. The country seems to rise
hereabouts and to be more broken, the ridges stony: the dwarf timber and
brush very thick. In searching for the horses this morning several
kangaroos and emus were seen, also the huts of a tribe of natives
recently inhabited.

May 25.--The horses much refreshed, except one which is unable to carry
any thing; his load was therefore obliged to be distributed among the
rest, already too heavily laden. At nine o'clock set forward on our
journey. At two we arrived at the base of a hill of considerable
magnitude, terminating westward in an abrupt perpendicular rock
from two hundred and fifty to three hundred feet high. The country we
passed over was of the most miserable description; the last eight miles
without a blade of grass. The acacia brushes grow generally on a hard
and clayey soil evidently frequently covered with water, and I consider
that these plains or brushes are swamps or morasses in wet weather,
since they must receive all the water from the low ranges with which
they are generally circumscribed. It is a remarkable feature in the
hills of this country that their terminations are generally
perpendicular westward, rising from the lower grounds round from
south-west to north-west very gradually; their terminating rocky bluffs
are usually two or three hundred feet high. I include in these
observations not only the single detached hills, but the points of the
ranges. This hill was named Mount Aiton. The country having been
recently burnt, some good grass was found for the horses a little to the
south-west. We therefore stopped for the night, and ascended the face of
the mount for the purpose of looking around: a very large brown speckled
snake was killed about half way up, which, in the absence of fresh
provisions, was afterwards eaten by some of the party. On arriving at
the summit we had an extensive prospect in every direction; the country
was most generally level, but rose occasionally into gentle eminences
bounded by distant low ranges from the south south-west to the
north-west. The most considerable of these ranges were named PEEL'S
RANGE, and GOULBURN'S RANGE: a very lofty hill, distant at least seventy
miles, was named MOUNT GRANARD. Interspersed through the country,
bounded by those ranges, were several large tracts entirely devoid of
wood; these are however, I fear, only a repetition of the acacia plains
of which we had lately been but too abundantly favoured. From
south-west by south round to north-east were some low broken hills, with
some to the east-south-east of greater magnitude; but their distance was
so great as to appear but faintly in the horizon. Upon the whole the
country appeared more open and somewhat better, particularly in the
immediate vicinity of our station to the south-west. There were not the
smallest signs of any stream, neither is-ere there any fires in the
direction we had to take. Three or four fires were seen in the
north-west, and recent traces of the natives were discovered near our
tents. The inhabitants of these wilds must be very few, and I think it
impossible for more than a family to subsist together; a greater number
would only starve each other: indeed their deserted fires and camps
which we occasionally saw, never appeared to have been occupied by more
than six or eight persons. The scarcity of food must also prevent the
raising of many children, from the absolute impossibility of supporting
them until of an age to provide for themselves. We have seen so few
animals, either kangaroo or emu, and the country appears so little
capable of maintaining these animals, that the means of the natives in
procuring food must be precarious indeed. We found just a sufficiency of
water to answer our purpose in a drain from the Mount; our dogs are,
however, in a wretched condition for want of food.

May 26.--The horses having strayed in the night, every man was employed
in searching for them. In passing through those barren brushes
yesterday, a great quantity of small iron-stones was picked up, from the
size of a large pea to a hen's-egg, all nearly round, being washed into
heaps by the waters, which in time of rain sweep over those flats. The
front of Mount Aiton was found to decline about fifteen degrees from the
perpendicular; the rocks were composed of a hard sandy free-stone. It
was eight o'clock in the evening before any of the people returned, and
then only two men came back with two horses, being all they were able to
find: the other three men are still absent, but they had found the track
of the other horses before these men left them. The two horses were
discovered in the midst of a thick brush, entangled among creeping
plants and unable to get further: they must have strayed in search of
water, the water at this place not being sufficient for them all. The
animals were all spencilled, but such is the scarcity of both water and
grass, that they will wander in search of each.

The natives have been reconnoitring us: we have several times heard
them, but have been unable to see them. At sunset their fires were
seen about two miles to the south-west.

May 27.--At day-light, despatched the other two men and horses to the
assistance of the rest, who remained out all night.

A native was seen about half a mile from our fires: the dogs attacked
him, and when called off, he ran away shouting most lustily; he was a
very stout man, at least six feet high, entirely naked, with a long
bushy beard: he had no arms of any kind. At two o'clock, two of the men
who had been out all night returned, after an unsuccessful search,
leaving three more out to pursue it in every possible direction. Water
is evidently the reason of their straying, as several patches of burnt
grass have been passed by them, and they would naturally return to the
place where they last found it, if they could find none nearer.
At sunset the men returned with nine of the horses, five being still
missing: they were found ten miles on the road back, and near the place
where they fed on the 24th.

May 28.--At daylight despatched four men on horseback to resume the
search for the missing horses, taking with them two days' provisions.

May 29.--At four o'clock in the afternoon the men returned, still
unsuccessful.

May 30.--At seven o'clock I proceeded to the north-east with two men,
whilst Mr. Evans went to the north-west. At ten I was fortunate enough to
fall in with the horses about eight miles from our camp; returned with
them, and prepared every thing for setting forward to-morrow morning. In
one of the brushes an emu's nest was found, containing ten eggs; our
dogs also killed two small birds. Mr. Evans returned about three
o'clock, having seen nothing remarkable: the country was very thick and
brushy, and he was much impeded by creeping vines.

Mr. Cunningham here planted the seeds of quinces, and the stones of
peach and apricot trees.

May 31.--Fine weather as usual, and at nine o'clock we set off with
renewed hopes and spirits. Our first nine miles afforded excellent
travelling through an open country of very indifferent soil. The trees
thin and chiefly cypress, with occasionally a large sterculia, but no
water whatever: at the ninth mile we entered a very thick eucalyptus
brush, overrun with creepers and prickly acacia bushes. We continued
forcing our way through this desert until sunset, when, finding no hopes
of getting through it before dark, we halted in the midst of it, having
travelled in the whole nearly twenty miles, and for the last mile been
obliged to cut our way with our tomahawks.

Both men and horses were quite knocked up, and our embarrassment was
heightened by the want of water for ourselves and them, as this desert
did not hold out the slightest hope of finding any. No herbage of any
kind grew on this abandoned plain, being a fine red sand, which almost
blinded us with its dust. It was with some little hesitation that we
affixed a name to this brush; but at length nothing occurred to us more
expressive of its aspect than EURYALEAN. This was the first night which
we had passed absolutely without water.

June 1.--A cold frosty morning. The weather during the might changed
from very mild and pleasant to extreme cold; the thermometer varying
24. At daylight we loaded the horses and set forward to get out of this
scrub, and endeavour to procure water and grass for the horses, which
we were obliged to tie to bushes, to prevent them from straying. After
going about two miles farther we cleared the thickest of it: but the
country was only more open, and not in any degree more fertile. We
proceeded on towards the south-east end of Peel's range until twelve
o'clock, when, having gone nearly eleven miles, the horses were unable
to proceed farther with their loads. There was nothing left for us but
to unload them, and separate in every direction in search of that most
precious of elements, without tasting a drop of which both men and
horses had now existed nearly thirty-six hours.

Water was found in three holes in the side of Peel's range sufficient
for all our necessities, and a most grateful relief it proved,
particularly to the poor horses, who were nearly famished for the want
of it: one of the best of our animals was so exhausted that it was with
some difficulty he could be taken to the water. I wish the grass had
proved equally good, but there is nothing for them but dead wire-grass
(IRA). We saw no game, with the exception of three or four kangaroo
rats: many beautiful small parrots were observed; and, barren as the
scrub appeared to us, yet our botanists reaped an excellent harvest
here; nothing being more true than that the most beautiful plants and
shrubs flourish best where no grass or other herbage will grow.

June 2.--Fine and clear as usual, the nights cold. One of our best
horses, mentioned yesterday as having fallen repeatedly under his load,
was this morning extremely ill, having entirely lost the use of his
hind quarters. Finding that he was quite unable to accompany us, and in
fact unfit to do any more work, it was with extreme reluctance that I
caused him to be shot, since it would have been no mercy to suffer him
to linger in his present miserable condition. Observations were taken to
ascertain our situation, and they placed us lat. 34. 8. 8. S.,
long. 146.03. E., the variation of the compass being 7. 18. E.

The hills to the southward of us are curiously composed of pudding-stone
in very large masses, the lower stratum being a coarse granite
intermingled with pieces of quartz, and a variety of other stones.

June 3.--Set forward on our route, passing over a rugged, barren, and
rocky country for about four miles and a half, when we ascended a hill
upon our right which promised a view in all directions. To the
southward, south-west, and even west, the country was a perfect plain,
interspersed with more of those dreadful scrubs which we had passed
through. In coming from Mount Aiton to the south-east were some low
ranges, with a level barren country between us and them; this hill was
named Mount Caley, and the termination of Peel's range to the southward,
a lofty rocky hill, was called Mount Brogden. On descending the hill, I
had the mortification to find that one of the horses, who had hitherto
performed well, now sunk under his load, and was unable to proceed
farther: in short, all of them appeared so debilitated, that the utmost
we could promise ourselves was their proceeding three or four miles
farther in search of grass and water. Directing the man to stay by his
load, we proceeded towards some burnt grass which had been seen from
Mount Caley, and after going about four miles farther we stopped upon
it. As the ultimate success of the expedition so entirely depended upon
the capability of the horses to perform the journey, it was judged
advisable that they should have two or three days rest before we
attempted to penetrate farther; and as we were now on a spot that at
least afforded them a mouthful of fresh wire-grass, I determined, if
water should be found, to remain here until Friday morning.

The country is so extremely impracticable, and so utterly destitute of
the means of affording subsistence to either man or beast; water is so
precarious, and when found is only the contents of small muddy holes,
which under different circumstances would be rejected equally by horses
and by men, that I much fear we shall not be able to proceed much
further; but my mind is made up to persevere until the last horse fails
us, keeping that course which, although inclining to the westward, will
bring us out upon the coast upon a nearer line than Cape Northumberland,
which I intended to steer for when we quitted the Lachlan River.

Sent back assistance to the man and horse left under Mount Caley, and at
eight o'clock they returned.

After searching in every direction, no water was found, except in a
small hole evidently dug by the natives under Mount Brogden, and
containing scarcely sufficient for the people.

June 4.--Weather as usual fine and clear, which is the greatest comfort
we enjoy in these deserts, abandoned as they seem to be by every living
creature capable of getting out of them. I was obliged to send the
horses back to our former halting-place for water, a distance of near
eight miles: this is terrible for the horses, who are in general
extremely reduced; but two in particular cannot, I think, endure this
miserable existence much longer.

At five o'clock, two men, whom I had sent to explore the country to the
south-west and see if any water could be found, returned, after
proceeding six or seven miles: they found it impossible to go any
farther in that direction or even south, from the thick brushes that
intersected their course on every side; and no water (nor in fact the
least sign of any) was discovered either by them, or by those who were
sent in search of it nearer to our little camp.

No other trace of inhabitants (besides the well from which we derive our
supply of water) has hitherto been seen: no game of any kind, nor grass
to support any, have resulted from the various routes and observations
of the different persons who were employed for that purpose during the
day. I almost despair of finding any, for the country being perfectly
level (some few elevated stations excepted), and the soil a deep loose
red sand, the rain which falls must be immediately absorbed, and indeed
it is quite impossible that water should remain on the surface of the
land which we have travelled over since we have left the river.

At the period we quitted the river I considered our height above the
level of the sea to be about five hundred feet, an elevation too
trifling to afford a hope that any streams could rise in these regions
and flow thence into the sea. In traversing these flats, the declivity,
when it could be observed, was always towards the west and north-west,
obliging me to believe that either the country continued a desert of
sand as at present, or that its westerly inclination would cause all
that part of it to consist of marshes and swamps. Since quitting the
river we have not enjoyed what under any other circumstances would be
called drinkable water; what was found being merely the contents of
shallow mud holes, in the bottom of acacia swamps, over which the
dryness of the season alone enabled us to travel. We have uniformly been
obliged to strain our water before we drank it, and its taste, from the
decayed vegetable matter it contained, was sour and unpleasant.

June 5.--A clear cold frosty morning: sent the horses to the watering
place: if it be any way possible to get them on, it is my intention to
proceed to-morrow morning, as it is almost as much labour to them to go
for water as it would be to perform a short day's journey.

From every thing I can see of the country to the south-west, it appears,
upon the most mature deliberation, highly imprudent to persevere longer
in that direction, as the consequences to the horses of want of water
and grass might be most serious; and we are well assured that within
forty miles on that point the country is the same as before passed over.
In adopting a north-westerly course, it is my intention to be entirely
guided by the possibility of procuring subsistence for the horses, that
being the main point on which all our ulterior proceedings must hinge.
It is however to be expected that as the country is certainly lower to
the west and north-west than from south-east to south-west, there is a
greater probability of finding water in this latter direction. In our
present perplexing situation, however, it is impossible to lay down any
fixed plan, as (be it what it may) circumstances after all must guide us.
Our horses are unable to go more than eight or ten miles a day, but even
then they must be assured of finding food, of which, in these deserts,
the chances are against the existence.

Yesterday, being the King's birthday, Mr. Cunningham planted under Mount
Brogden acorns, peach and apricot-stones, and quince-seeds, with the
hope rather than the expectation that they would grow and serve to
commemorate the day and situation, should these desolate plains be ever
again visited by civilized man, of which, however, I think there is very
little probability.

Our observation placed the situation of the tent in lat. 34. 13. 33. S.,
long. 146. E.; the variation of the compass 8. 08. E.

June 6.--A mild pleasant morning: set forward on our journey to the
westward and north-west, in hopes of finding a better country: at two
o'clock halted about two miles from Peel's range, after going about
eight miles through a very thick cypress scrub; the country equally bad
as on any of the foregoing days. We saw no signs of water during our
route: the whole country seems burnt up with long continued drought; no
traces of natives, or any game seen.

After two hours' search a small hole of water was found at the foot of
the range, sufficient for the horses, and in a hole in the rocks a
little clearer was procured for ourselves.

June 7.--Set forward to the north-west, the horses being a little
fresher than for some days past. Halted at four o'clock, having gone ten
miles through a country which, for barrenness and desolation, can I
think have no equal; it was a continued scrub, and where there was
timber it chiefly consisted of small cypress: we saw no water as usual,
but stopped on some burnt grass near the base of a low range of stony
hills west of Peel's range, from which we are distant eight or ten
miles. These ranges abound with native dogs; their howlings are
incessant, day as well as night: as we saw no game, their principal
prey must be rats, which have almost undermined this loose sandy
country.

As we had brought a small keg of water with us, we did not on this
occasion suffer absolute want: we hope that the instinct of the horses
would lead them to water in the course of the night--but we were too
sanguine.

Our spirits were not a little depressed by the desolation and want that
seemed to reign around us: the scene was never varied, except from bad
to worse. However, the scarcity of water and grass for the horses are
our greatest real privations, for the temperature is mild and equable
beyond what could be expected at this season, and it is this
circumstance alone that enables us to proceed: the horses are too much
reduced to endure rainy weather, even if the loose soil of the country
would permit us to travel over it.

June 8.--During the night there was light rain. At daylight sent out in
search of water, but all our efforts proved unsuccessful. Peel's range
being the nearest high land, I determined to search the base of it, in
hopes of finding water, since it was impossible that either men or
horses could long endure this almost constant privation of the first
necessary of life. I accordingly set off towards the range, but was
prevented from making it by impenetrable scrubs: we then returned to the
range a little to the west of the tent, whence we could see a
considerable distance to the west and north-west; it is impossible to
imagine a prospect more desolate. The whole country in these directions,
as far as the eye could reach, was one continued thicket of eucalyptus
scrub: it was physically impossible to proceed that way, and our
situation was too critical to admit of delay; it was therefore resolved
to return back to our last station on the 6th under Peel's range, if for
no other purpose than that of giving the horses water. I felt that by
attempting to proceed westerly I should endanger the safety of every man
composing the expedition, without any practical good arising from such
perseverance: it was therefore deemed more prudent to keep along the
base of Peel's range to its termination, having some chance of finding
water in its rocky ravines, whilst there was none at all in attempting
to keep the level country. It was too late to pursue this resolution
this evening.

June 9.--During the night heavy rain. At eight o'clock set off on our
return to our halting-place of the 6th, the horses having been now
forty-eight hours without water. We had scarcely proceeded a mile when
it began to rain hard, and continued to do so without intermission until
we stopped at the place where water had been previously found: it was by
this time two o'clock, the horses failed, and the people were in little
better condition, not having tasted any thing since the evening before.
All our clothes were wet through, a circumstance which added greatly to
the unpleasantness of our situation.

The true nature of the soil was fully developed by this day's rain.
Being in dry weather a loose light sand without any apparent
consistency, it was now discovered to have a small portion of loam mixed
with it, which, without having the tenacity of clay, is sufficient to
render it slimy and boggy: I am quite satisfied that two days' rain will
at any time render this country impassable. The mortification and
distress of mind I felt at being obliged to take a retrograde direction
was heightened by seeing the horses struggling under loads far beyond
their present powers, their labour rendered still more trying by the
miserable country they were obliged to pass through.

June 10.--Light rain during the night, the morning fair and pleasant:
upon mature deliberation it was resolved to remain here until the 13th,
for the purpose of refreshing the horses. I also determined to send a
detachment on before us, to endeavour to find an eligible station for us
to stop at, that we might proceed with more certainty.

Mr. Cunningham named those thick brushes of eucalyptus that spread in
every direction around us EUCALYPTUS DUMOSA, or the dwarf gum, as they
never exceed twenty feet in height, and are generally from twelve to
fifteen, spreading out into a bushy circle from their roots in such a
manner that it is impossible to see farther than from one bush to the
other; and these are very often united by a species of vine (cassytha),
and the intermediate space covered with prickly wire-grass, rendering a
passage through them equally painful and tedious

The low ranges of hills which we quitted yesterday morning we named
Disappointment Hills, from our not being able to penetrate beyond them
to the north-west or west, and also from our not finding any water on
them; our hopes being thus disappointed of penetrating into the interior
in the direction that I intended when we quitted Mount Brogden.

June 11.--A party set forward to the northward to explore our
to-morrow's route, and to endeavour to find water at some eligible
station.

They returned about four o'clock, having proceeded eight or ten miles.
Small holes of water were found in almost every gully. They saw several
traces of the natives, but none recent: the dogs killed several
kangaroo-rats, and some new species of plants were discovered.

June 12.--Fine and clear. At eight o'clock set forward on our journey
along the west side of Peel's range: we proceeded to the north,
inclining westerly for about ten miles; the travelling for the horses
very bad, the ground being extremely soft, the description of the
country the same. The trees resembled bushes more than timber, being
chiefly small cypresses, which is the prevailing wood. The grass where
we stopped was very bad, but the quantity and quality of the water
compensated for it. No recent marks of the natives having visited this
part of the range.

June 13.--Fine mild pleasant weather. Proceeded along the foot of Peel's
range for about ten miles; we then inclined north-easterly, the range
taking that direction, and after going about four miles farther we
stopped for the evening: the country was wretchedly barren and scrubby,
and to the north-west and west a continued eucalyptus dumosa scrub,
extending as far as the eye could reach from the occasional small hills
which we passed in our route.

Water was found about two miles off in the range, affording a bare
sufficiency for ourselves and horses.

June 14.--Fine clear weather. Proceeded on our journey northwards: the
first four or five miles was over a rocky broken country, consisting of
low hills, rising westerly of Peel's range. After going about six miles
and a half the country became more open and less rocky; as the grass was
here better than at our last night's halting-place, and the water
convenient and tolerable, we resolved upon stopping, particularly as I
intended resting the horses to-morrow; and I was fearful if I proceeded
farther I might meet with neither, and thus be obliged to continue
travelling to-morrow; an exertion which the horses were not in a
condition to make. Nothing can be more irksome than the tedious days'
journeys we are obliged to make through a country in which there is not
the smallest variety, each day's occurrences and scenes being but a
recapitulation of the former: our patience would frequently be
exhausted, were we not daily reanimating ourselves with the hopes that
the morrow will bring us to a better country, and render a journey, the
labour of which has hitherto been ill repaid, of some service to the
colony, and of some satisfaction to the expectations which had been
formed of its result.

June 15.--Observed in lat. 33. 49. 09. S., and long. 145. 54. E.
Mr. Cunningham went upon Peel's range in search of plants, and found a
few
new ones; the country to the north appeared hilly and broken, but no
scrubs, such as obstructed our progress westward, were seen. Goulburn's
range had a remarkable appearance, being broken into peaks and
singularly shaped hills. A solitary native was seen by one of our party,
but he ran off with great precipitation on friendly signs being made to
him to approach.

June 16.--It blew extremely hard during the night, and rained
incessantly, as it still continues to do, with scarcely any
intermission. This morning we had the misfortune to find one horse dead,
the same that fell under his load on the 3d instant, and, as he had
carried little or nothing since, he appeared to be recovering his
strength. Independently of the continuance of heavy rain, which would
certainly have prevented me from attempting to set forward, the ground
has become so hollow and soft from the rain which fell during the night,
that it was the universal opinion that the horses could not travel under
their loads. It cleared up towards night, with the exception of
occasional heavy showers.

June 17.--Towards morning the weather became fine, with fresh winds from
the north-east; at eight o'clock set forward on our journey, the ground
extremely wet and soft.

We could not proceed above ten miles when we stopped, one of the horses
being completely disabled from going any farther. The line of country we
passed over was rocky, barren, and miserable, the level grounds being a
perfect bog; to the westward, low irregular rocky ranges, with blasted
and decayed cypresses on their summits, were the only objects which
presented themselves to our view. There was neither grass nor water
where we stopped; of course, nothing but the absolute necessity that
existed to spare the horses could induce us to halt. People were sent to
search the range for water, but all their endeavours proved fruitless,
after wandering in every probable direction until sunset. The coldness
of the air would have prevented us from feeling much inconvenience from
this privation, had it been in our power to have satisfied our hunger
but salt pork, would have proved an aggravating meal without water; we
therefore preferred an absolute fast to the certainty of increasing our
thirst.

About sunset the wind increased to a perfect storm, accompanied by heavy
showers, which prevented the horses from suffering so severely as they
otherwise would.

June 18.--The weather was very tempestuous during the night: towards
morning the wind somewhat abated, and left light drizzling showers. Our
search after water was renewed, and so far succeeded as to procure us
about a pint of rain-water each, which afforded us great relief. It did
not appear that the horses had been equally successful.

Upon consultation, in our present critical situation it was resolved
that Mr. Evans should proceed forward to the north-north-west until he
found grass and water, and as it was evident to all that the horses were
utterly incapable of proceeding with their present loads to any
distance, I thought it expedient to leave half our provisions behind,
and proceed to the place selected by Mr Evans, and then to send back for
the remainder: in fact, there remained no alternative; reduced as the
horses were in their strength, it would have been in the highest degree
imprudent to have dared the almost certainty of killing them by
proceeding with their usual loads.

After going about three miles we came upon a small valley which afforded
both good grass and water; the latter was rain-water collected in holes
at the base of the range, which was composed of a hard granite rock. In
this valley we found several holes dug by the natives, for the purpose
of receiving water; in some a few quarts of muddy water were found,
others were quite dry. It rained almost incessantly during the whole of
this day, rendering our situation extremely unpleasant.

As if to add to our misfortunes, it was now first discovered that
three of the casks, which had all along been taken for flour casks, were
filled with pork; and upon a minute investigation it came out, that
when, on the 1st of May, the large boat had been reported to have filled
from the falling of the river without any other accident, that then, in
fact, three of the upper tier of casks had been washed out of her. It
was impossible, at this distance of time, to exactly ascertain how such
a serious loss could have happened and not have been discovered before,
for the boatmen persisted in declaring that their cargo was then all
safe; but, as so large a quantity could not possibly have been consumed
by the party clandestinely without certain discovery, it appeared quite
clear that the loss either happened on that day or on the 4th, when the
large boat sunk from having been stove. In counting our casks up to this
period, three, in every respect the same as the flour casks, with
similar marks, had been reckoned in their lieu by us all, whilst the
deficiency being then apparently in the pork was not suspected by any.

In this distressing dilemma nothing remained for us but to reduce our
ration of flour in such a proportion as would leave us twelve weeks of
that article, and as we had still plenty of pork, to issue an extra
pound of it weekly. Since leaving the depot we had been so extremely
guarded in the issue of provisions, to prevent the possibility of our
suffering from any longer protraction of our journey than was expected,
that never more than six pounds of flour had been issued to each person
weekly, which now, from this accident coming to light, was reduced to
four pounds: it was, in truth, extremely fortunate that we had thus kept
within the calculated ration, as otherwise our situation would have been
highly alarming.

Some of our party began even now to anticipate the resources of famine,
for a large native dog being killed, it was pronounced, like lord
Peter's loaf, in the Tale of a Tub, to be true, good, natural mutton as
any in Leadenhall-market, and eaten accordingly: for myself, I was not
yet brought to the conversion of Martin and Jack.

The natives had been in this valley very recently, and I conjectured
that they were then not far from us. In the afternoon, the rain still
continuing, I sent back the strongest of the horses to bring up the
provisions left behind. Towards eight o'clock the wind increased to a
storm, so that the rain was forced through our tent in every part, and
we were fairly washed out: this abated about ten o'clock, and the
weather partially cleared up. Upon the whole this was the most
uncomfortable day and night we had experienced since we quitted the
depot.

June 19.--Fresh winds from the north-west, with thick small rain. The
valley was now a complete bog, the hills closing on each side of it, and
its widest part not exceeding two hundred yards: the soil imbibes all
the water almost as fast as it falls. There was one comfort in all this
bad weather; we had plenty of water, and the horses tolerable grass.

Taking advantage of a fair interval, I explored to the north-north-west
about a mile, whence I had a tolerable view of the country between the
showers: it was broken into very remarkable hills between the north-west
by north and north-east; to the west it was more level, and having been
burnt, the young grass gave it a more cheering aspect than any we had
seen for some time. Bearings were taken to several remarkable hills for
the purpose of connecting the survey.

Two swans passed over the valley to the north-west, which we considered
as a sign that water lay in that direction.

June 20.--The weather broke up during the night, and the morning was
fair and pleasant. However desirable it was that the horses should
remain another day in this valley to recruit, yet, in the present
unsettled state of the season, I was unwilling to lose an hour more than
was absolutely necessary. We here left all the spare horse-shoes, broken
axes, etc. in order to lighten the burden of the horses. This little
valley received the name of Peach Valley, from our having here planted
the last of our fruit-stones.

At eight we proceeded to the north-north-west, our course taking us over
a broken barren country; the hills composed of rocks and small stones,
the valleys and flats of sand. To the westward of our route the country
was covered with scrubs of the eucalyptus dumosa; these scrubs we
avoided, by keeping close along the base of Peel's range, where the
country had been lately burnt. It is somewhat singular that those scrubs
and brushes seldom if ever extend to the immediate base of the hills:
the washings from them rendered the soil somewhat better for two or
three hundred yards. As to water, we did not see the least signs of any
during the whole day. After proceeding between nine and ten miles, we
stopped for the evening on some burnt grass, which existed in sufficient
quantity; but, although we procured a few gallons of water for
ourselves, not all our researches could find a sufficiency for the
horses.

The dogs killed a pretty large emu, which was a most luxurious addition
to our salt pork, of which alone we were all well satiated. I ascended
the range behind the tent, and I never saw a more broken country, or one
more barren. It appeared more open to the north-north-west, to which
point our course will be directed to-morrow.

June 21.--Fine mild weather: at eight o'clock set forward on our
journey. The farther we proceed north-westerly, the more convinced I am
that, for all the practical purposes of civilized man, the interior of
this country westward of a certain meridian is uninhabitable, deprived
as it is of wood, water, and grass. With respect to water, it is quite
impossible that any can be retained on such a soil as the country is
composed of, and no watercourses, for the same reason, can be formed;
for, like a sponge, it absorbs all the rain that falls, which, judging
from every appearance, cannot be much. The wandering native with his
little family may find a precarious subsistence in the ruts with which
the country abounds; but even he, with all the local knowledge which
such a life must give him, is obliged to dig with immense labour little
wells at the bottom of the hills to procure and preserve a necessary of
life which is evidently not to be obtained by any other method.

We proceeded through a broken irregular country for nearly six miles,
when the evident weakness of the horses made it highly imprudent to
attempt to proceed farther. We therefore halted under a high rocky hill,
which was named Barrow's Hill; and sent round in all directions to
look for water. The goodness of Providence came to our succour when we
least expected it; an ample sufficiency for the people being found near
the top of the hill in the hollow of a rock.

I ascended Barrow's Hill, and from its summit had a very extensive
prospect from the west north-west round to east-north-east. To the north
the country appeared perfectly level, though the horizon was skirted
with distant hammocks, which could be but faintly distinguished.
To the north-east were some native's fires; and a lofty detached
mountain was named Mount Flinders: a high range to the westward was
named Macquarie's Range, in honour of his excellency the Governor.

The men returned late after an unsuccessful search for water, having
gone entirely round Mount Flinders. There was now nothing to be done but
to drive the horses to the base of the hill under which we were
encamped, and share with them the water whence we derived our own
supply: it was obliged to be handed from man to man in the cooking
kettle, out of which the poor animals drank; and I was happy to find
that a sufficiency would still remain to supply us until Monday morning,
when we intended again to set forward.

June 22.--The morning mild, but a thick drizzling rain continued until
near noon, when it cleared up. The variation of the compass was 7. 45. E.

About sunset Mr. Cunningham returned from a botanical excursion to
Mount Flinders; he had found many new plants on the west side of the
mount, but nothing was seen from its summit which had not been
previously observed from Barrow's Hill: Frazer, our botanical soldier,
also returned from Mount Bowen, in Goulburn's Range; but was not
fortunate enough to find any thing new in vegetation, as it had been
lately burnt: it was, however, remarkable that the paneratium Macquarie
should be found growing in great abundance at the very top; this plant
never being found except near moist Places, and in the vicinity of
water. At the foot of Mount Bowen, Frazer fell in with a native camp,
which had not been quitted more than a day or two: among the reliques
were three or four pearl muscles, such as we had observed on the river;
and it is probable that these may have been the property of natives who
live more immediately in that vicinity. These shells are used as knives,
being ground very sharp against the rocks, and certainly for a scraper
they may answer very well.

It may here be remarked, that the composition of the lofty detached
hills, designated as mounts, is uniformly different from the rock
composing the bases and summits of the more connected and elevated
tracts, and what may more properly be termed ranges; the latter being of
hard dark coloured granite, whilst the former rather resembles hard
sandstone, studded with pebbles and quartz. The west side of Mount
Flinders was covered with quartz, whilst the larger pieces of rock, on
being broken, appeared to be an indurated sandstone.

June 23.--The watering our horses took us up so much time, that it was
ten o'clock before we set forward to the northward. After proceeding
about four miles, the country became much more open, extending east and
west over a flat level plain, the botany of which, in every respect,
resembled Field's Plains; except that a new species of eucalyptus took
place of the acacia pendula. A flock of large kangaroos was seen for the
first time since we quitted the Lachlan; also many emus and bustards.
Our dogs killed three kangaroos and two emus. The soil of these plains
was a stiff tenacious clay, and had every appearance of being frequently
under water: as we were now in the parallel of the spot where the river
divided into branches, the altered appearance of the country induced us
to hope that we should shortly fall in with some permanent water, and be
relieved from the constant anxiety attendant on the precarious supply to
which we had lately been enured.

After going eight miles and a quarter, we suddenly came upon the banks
of the river; I call it the river, for it could certainly be no other
than the Lachlan, which we had quitted nearly five weeks before. Our
astonishment was extreme, since it was an incident little expected by
any one. It was here extremely diminished in size, but was still nearly
equal in magnitude to the south-west branch which we last quitted. The
banks were about twelve or fourteen feet above the water, and it was
running with a tolerably brisk stream to the westward. The banks were so
thickly covered with large eucalypti, that we did not perceive it until
we were within a very few yards of it; it appeared about thirty feet
broad, running over a sandy bottom. I think it extremely probable that
the waters of both the main branches, after losing a very considerable
portion over the low grounds in the neighbourhood of Mount Cunningham
and Field's Plains, have again united and formed the present stream.

Our future course did not admit of any hesitation, and it was resolved
to go down the stream as long as there was a chance of its becoming more
considerable, and until our provisions should be so far expended as
barely to enable us to return to Bathurst.

It is a singular phenomenon in the history of this river, that, in a
course of upwards of two hundred and fifty miles, in a direct line from
where Mr. Evans first discovered it, not the smallest rivulet, or, in
fact, water of any description, falls into it from either the north or
south; with the exception of the two small occasional streams near the
depot, which flow from the north.

The country to the southward, in its soil and productions, explains
pretty satisfactorily why no constant running streams can have sources
in that direction; and it may be esteemed, as to useful purposes,
a desert, uninhabitable country. A small strip along the sea-coast
may possibly be better, and derive water from the low hills which
are known to border on it: south of the parallel of 34. S. may
therefore be considered as falling under the above designation and
description of country.

The plains south of the river, and lying from Goulburn's to Macquarie's
Range, were named Strangford Plains; and a remarkable peak south of
Barrow's Hill, Dryander's Head.

We resolved to try if our old friends, the fish, still continued in the
streams; in the course of a short time five fine ones were caught: this
most seasonable refreshment had an excellent effect in raising our
hitherto depressed spirits; and eternal Hope again visited us in the
form of extensive lakes and a better country; and even when her
companion Fear obtruded herself on our minds, the certainty of plenty of
water, and the chance of a fresh meal, dispelled every remaining
anxiety.

It was a matter of considerable curiosity and interest to us, in what
direction the Macquarie River had run; it was clear that it had not
joined the present stream, for in that case it would have been much more
considerable: we were within three or four miles of the latitude of
Bathurst, and it was scarcely probable that it should continue for so
long a course to run parallel to the Lachlan. The whole form, character,
and composition of this part of the country is so extremely singular,
that a conjecture on the subject is hardly hazarded before it is
overturned; every thing seems to run counter to the ordinary course of
nature in other countries.

June 24.--The water is about three feet above the common level, and
although the banks on both sides are certainly occasionally overflowed,
there is no appearance of any fresh or flood having swollen the stream
for a considerable time.

At nine o'clock we set forward down the river; our course lay westerly,
and by three o'clock we had gone nearly twelve miles in that direction;
when we stopped for the night on the banks of the river near the
termination of Macquarie's Range, the north point of which I named Mount
Porteous.

Strangford's Plains lay along our course the whole way; the river being
hidden from our view by a thick border of trees. We observed several
hollows and gulleys, which being connected with the river in times of
flood, receive their waters from it; they were now dry; but the
singularity consisted in the water being conveyed by them over the low
lands instead of their being the channels by which the waters in rainy
seasons might be drained off to the river. During our whole journey, we
have never discovered in what manner any additional supply of water
could be conveyed to it, as the back lands (with the exception of the
ranges) were always lower than the immediate banks of the river itself;
where we stopped, it was about thirty feet wide, and nearly choked up
with fallen trees.

Whilst the horses were coming up, I set off, accompanied by Mr.
Cunningham, for the purpose of ascending Mount Porteous: the view from
it by no means repaid us for our trouble; the same everlasting flats met
our eye in every direction westerly round nearly to north, in which
quarter the horizon was occasionally studded with hills, at too great a
distance to render them objects of interest to us. The immediate
vicinity of the river was free from timber or brush in various places;
and these tracts have hitherto received the particular denomination of
PLAINS, which might with equal propriety be extended to the whole
country. The bases of the hills and ranges were invariably a barren red
sand, affording nourishment to a few miserable cypresses and eucalypti
dumosa; between which, and filling up all the intermediate spaces, grows
a variety of acacia and dwarf shrubs, rendering those parts nearly a
thicket. Within one hundred yards of the bank of the river, and there
alone, were seen the only timber trees we had met with in the country;
if huge unshapen eucalypti, which would not afford a straight plank ten
feet long, may be so denominated.

June 25,--Proceeded down the river, and at three o'clock halted for the
night, having performed about eleven miles; the country barren, even to
the very verge of the stream, which continues to run nearly west. We
were obliged to keep at a small distance from the river, owing to large
lagoons, partly full of water, which would have otherwise interrupted
our course, or rather our multitude of courses; for I never saw a stream
with such opposite windings, and no one reach was a quarter of a mile
long, so that it may be said to resemble a collar of SS. The opposite
plains were named Butterworth Plains.

Several new plants were the result of to-day's research, among them a
new species of amaryllis, upon which the botanists prided themselves
much; for in this country few were supposed to be in existence.

June 26--The morning cold and frosty. At nine o'clock we proceeded down
the river, which inclined to the south of west for ten miles; when at
three o'clock we stopped for the evening. We passed through a country to
the full as barren as any we had yet seen. There were occasional clear
spaces, but for the greater part thick cypress bushes, acacia, and other
low shrubs, rendered it difficult for the horses to pass. On the plain,
the acacia pendula again made a very fine appearance.

The timber on the intermediate banks of the stream became scarcer and
smaller; and from the marks on the trees in the swamps, it sometimes
overflows them to the depth of two feet; but they have now apparently
been long dry, the little water remaining in the hollows or holes being
a milky white.

The abundance of white cockatoos and crows, which is constantly about
the banks of the river, is astonishing; the other smaller birds appear
to be also common to the east coast. Since we have been on the river, no
recent traces of the natives have been seen; here, as higher up the
river, they rather seem to shun it, and frequent the higher grounds in
preference: perhaps their food is more easily procured on those grounds
than on the river, particularly as they appear unacquainted with the
method of taking the fish by hook and line.

As the horses were by no means in a condition to be forced, I determined
to remain here to-morrow to refresh them, and set forward again on
Saturday morning.

June 27.--After breakfast, I sent two men down the river to examine our
route for to-morrow: one of them crossed over to the north side, to
endeavour to reach some open spaces of plains which we saw from our
tent. In the course of the afternoon they both returned; one, who had
gone a little way inland on this side, could make no progress for
extensive swamps, covered with water of the depth of from two to four
feet, and abounding with black swans and wild fowl. The other man was
also unable to reach the plains on the other side for water supplied
from a creek of the river, and forming an extensive and deep morass.

With these unfavourable reports before us, we determined to keep close
to this bank of the river during tomorrow's journey; and if we should he
prevented by its overflowing from proceeding, to return, and endeavour
to round the morasses to the southward. Latitude by observation
33. 22. S., long. 145. 24. 15. E.; and the variation of the compass
7. 30. E.

June 28.--Upon farther consideration, it appeared more advisable that
the horses should proceed round the south edge of the morasses rather
than be obliged to return; after keeping by the river for three or four
miles, which to all appearance was as far as we should be enabled to
proceed in that direction. However, that there might remain no doubt as
to which was the preferable route, I adhered to my determination to go
down the banks of the river myself as far as I could, and return by the
route which the horses were to take. Our principal object being to keep
as close to the stream as possible, with reference to the ability of the
horses to travel over the ground.

The horses set forward at nine o'clock$ and I proceeded down the stream
five or six miles, when I was obliged to return to the place from which
I set out, being unable to cross a small drain that led from the swamps
to the river. I could in no place deviate above fifty yards from the
river without being bogged, the water lying in some places eighteen
inches deep, and in holes, much deeper. I attempted several times to
proceed southerly, intending to cross the track which I presumed Mr.
Evans would be obliged to take, but I was unable to accomplish it. The
route taken by Mr. Evans and the horses led along the edge of extensive
morasses covered with water; we proceeded nine or ten miles, when the
morasses almost assumed the appearance of lakes; very extensive
portions of them being free from timber, and being apparently deep
water. South of the edge of the morass along which we travelled, the
country was a barren scrub, and in places very soft; the horses falling
repeatedly during the day.

At the place where we stopped for the evening, I calculated that we were
about five miles south of the river; on the edge of a very large lagoon,
or lake. The country was so extremely low, that before I returned up the
river to rejoin the horses, wishing to see what the openings on the
other side were, I ascended a large gum tree, which enabled me to see
that the flats opposite were similar to those on the south side. Our
progress, upon the whole although we had travelled upwards of ten miles,
did not exceed in a direct line five miles. The lagoons abound with
water fowl, although we were not so fortunate as to obtain any; we were
however amply compensated by our dogs killing a fine large emu. Various
old marks of natives having visited these lakes, but none recent.

June 29.--Our course in the first instance was directed in such a
manner as to compass the lagoons, which after travelling about three
miles and a half to the south-west, we accomplished, and again came upon
the stream; the country thence backward bore the marks of being at some
periods near three feet under water, and was covered with small
box-trees: the country from our rejoining the river, to the place at
which we stopped for the evening, consisted of barren plains, extending
on both sides of the stream to a considerable distance backward. The
points of the bends of the river were universally wet swamps with large
lagoons; the back land, though equally subject to flood, was now dry;
but the travelling was very heavy, the ground being a rotten, red, sandy
loam, on which nothing grew but the usual production of marshes. I never
saw a stream with so many sinuosities; in many places a quarter of a
mile would cut off at least three miles by the river. The stream was in
places much contracted, sand banks stretching nearly across; its medium
depth was about eight feet.

There was not the smallest eminence whence a view might be obtained, the
country appearing a dead level; and although on these plains we could
see for some distance all round, yet there was not a rising ground in
any direction. The plains on the north side of the stream were named
Holdsworthy; and those on the south, Harrington. We were lucky enough to
procure two fine emus.

June 30.--The first two or three miles were somewhat harder travelling
than the greater part of yesterday. Immense plains extended to the
westward, as far as the eye could reach. These plains were entirely
barren, being evidently in times of rain altogether under water, when
they doubtless form one vast lake: they extended in places from three to
six miles from the margin of the stream, which on its immediate borders
was a wet bog, full of small water holes, and the surface covered with
marsh plants, with a few straggling dwarf box-trees. It was only on the
very edge of the bank, and in the bottoms of the bights, that any
eucalypti grew; the plains were covered with nothing but gnaphalium: the
soil various, in some places red tenacious clay, in others a dark
hazel-coloured loam, so rotten and full of holes that it was with
difficulty the horses could travel over them. Although those plains were
bounded only by the horizon, not a semblance of a hill appeared in the
distance; we seemed indeed to have taken a long farewell of every thing
like an elevation, whence the surrounding country could be observed. To
the southward, bounding those plains in that direction, barren scrubs
and dwarf box-trees, with numberless holes of stagnant water, too
clearly proclaimed the nature of the country in that quarter. We could
see through the openings of the trees on the river that plains of
similar extent occupied the other side, which has all along appeared to
us to be (if any thing) the lower ground. We travelled in the centre of
the plains, our medium distance from the river being from one to two
miles; and although we did not go above thirteen miles, some of the
horses were excessively distressed from the nature of the ground.

There was not the least appearance of natives; nor was bird or animal of
any description seen during the day, except a solitary native dog.
Nothing can be more melancholy and irksome than travelling over wilds,
which nature seems to have condemned to perpetual loneliness and
desolation. We seemed indeed the sole living creatures in those vast
deserts.

The plains last travelled over were named Molle's Plains, after the late
lieutenant-governor of the territory; and those on the opposite side,
Baird's Plains, after the general to whom he once acted as aide-de-camp,
and whose glory he shared. The naming of places was often the only
pleasure within our reach; but it was some relief from the desolation of
these plains and hills to throw over them the associations of names dear
to friendship, or sacred to genius. In the evening three or four small
fish were caught.

July 1.--Dark cloudy morning, with showers of rain. However desirous I
was to proceed, I found that to do so would greatly injure the horses.
Towards noon it cleared up, permitting me to take a tolerable
observation, to ascertain our situation. I consider ourselves as
peculiarly fortunate in being blessed with so dry and favourable a
season; since all attempts to penetrate into the country during rain, or
after an inundation of the stream, must have failed. I am quite
convinced that at this place, when the banks are overflowed, the waters
must extend from thirty to forty miles on each side of the stream, as we
are that distance from any eminence. If there had been any nearer to the
north, west, or south, we must have seen it from those extensive plains
on which we have travelled for the last three days; for looking
eastward, we can distinctly perceive Macquarie's Range, from which we
estimate ourselves to be about thirty-five miles west. The stream was
sounded in various places during the day, and its greatest depth never
exceeded seven feet; the bottom and sides a stiff bluish clay. Latitude
observed 33. 32. 22. S., longitude 145. 5. 50. E.; variation of the
compass 6. 49. E.

July 2.--At nine o'clock we again set forward down the stream; our
course, as it has hitherto done, lay over apparently interminable
plains, nothing relieving the eye but a few scattered bushes, and
occasionally some dwarf box-trees: the view was boundless as the ocean,
neither eminence nor hillock appearing. On the edges of the stream
alone, and the lagoons that occasionally branched from it, was any thing
like timber to be seen. The occasional openings on the stream enabled us
to perceive, that the north side was in every respect similar to the
south: I was so much deceived, by the semblance of the plains on the
other side to sheets of water, that I twice went down to the edge of the
stream to assure myself to the contrary.

A strong current of water must frequently pass over these plains, as is
evident from the traces left by the washings of shrubs, leaves, etc. The
soil was a brown hazel-coloured sandy loam, very soft and boggy; in
places it was more tenacious, water still remaining in many holes. By
the marks on the trees it would seem that the stream occasionally
overflows its banks to the depth of three or four feet; and five miles
back from it small trees were seen, that had evidently stood from twelve
to eighteen inches in the water. As usual we saw no recent signs of
natives having visited these parts; here and there the remains of
burnt muscle-shells would denote that at certain seasons the stream is
visited by them for the purpose of procuring these shell-fish: I am
clearly of opinion that, in dry summers, there is no running water in
the bed of the present stream, and thus it is easy for them to procure
the muscles from the shallow stagnant pools which would naturally be
formed at every bend of the stream. To procure any such shell-fish
whilst a stream like the present is running in it, is totally
impossible.

Although we did not travel above eleven miles, we were nearly seven
hours in performing it. Our halting place was within a few feet of the
river, and so wet and spongy, that the water sprung even from the
pressure of our feet; and this has been the case nearly ever since we
made the stream, though of course we chose the driest spots. Neither
hunting nor fishing were successful today, but as we had become from
experience not over sanguine, our expectations were not much
disappointed, and the aspect of the country promised nothing.

It had been remarked by all, for some days past, that a putrid sour
smell seemed to proceed from the plains, and we were at first at some
loss to discover the cause of it, as there did not appear sufficient
vegetable matter in a decayed state to produce such an effect. Mr.
Cunningham discovered that it proceeded from decayed plants of the
salsolae, which produce the same effect as decayed sea-weed does in salt
marshes; in short, all the plants found in our journey over these plains
are the natural productions of low wet situations.

July 3.--So thick a fog arose during the night, that in the morning we
could not see in any direction above one hundred yards; this delayed us
considerably, and it was the middle of the day before we could proceed.

Our course lay over the same description of country as we had previously
passed. The soil in some parts a red loamy mould; in others, a dark
hazel-coloured sandy soil: this last appears to have its origin in the
depositions left by floods, the former being the original or prevailing
soil. The plants and shrubs the same as yesterday.

Several flocks of a new description of pigeon were seen for the first
time; two were shot, and were beautiful and curious. Their heads were
crowned with a black plume, their wings streaked with black, the short
feathers of a golden colour edged with white; the back of their necks a
light flesh-colour, their breasts fawn-coloured, and their eyes red. A
new species of cockatoo or paroquet, being between both, was also seen,
with red necks and breasts, and grey backs. I mention these birds thus
particularly, as they are the only ones we have yet seen which at all
differ from those known on the east coast. [Note: See the Plates.] Our
visible horizon, in every direction, being merely studded with shrubs
and low bushes, gave the scene a singular marine appearance. We stopped
about two miles south of the river, not being able to reach it before
night-fall, the marshy ground having driven us a considerable distance
round.

July 4.--During this day's course we repeatedly attempted to gain the
situation where we supposed the river to take its course, but were
always disappointed; immense swamps constantly barred our attempts to
travel northerly; these swamps were now covered with several feet of
water, which, from the marks of dwarf trees growing in them, is
sometimes three or four feet deeper. The same dead level of country
still prevailed; and the sandy deserts of Arabia could not boast a
clearer horizon, the low acacia bushes not in any degree interrupting
the view. It was remarkable that there was always water where the dwarf
box-trees grew; we might therefore be said to coast along from woody
point to point, since all attempts to pass through them were uniformly
defeated. The soil the same as yesterday, and most unpleasant to travel
over, from the circular pools or hollows, which covered the whole plain,
and which seem to be formed by whirlpools of water, having a deep hole
in the bottom, through which the water appeared to have gradually
drained off. It is clear that the entire country is at times inundated,
and that as every thing now bears the appearance of long-continued
drought, the swamps and stagnant waters are the residuum.

In the whole we proceeded upwards of fourteen miles, and stopped for the
night upon the edge of one of the swamps, which are now the only places
that afford any timber for firing. Some traces of natives were seen
today, about three or four days old; they appeared to have been a single
family of four or five persons. If there are any natives in our
neighbourhood, they must have discovered